The textile and apparel industry has witnessed a dramatic increase in consumption over recent decades, resulting in substantial environmental degradation and a significant carbon footprint. According to the European Environment Agency, global textile fibre production has almost doubled from 58 million tonnes in 2000 to 109 million tonnes in 2020 and is projected to grow 145 million tonnes by 2030. This results 20% of global clean water pollution, discharging of 700,000 microplastic fibres into food chain, 270 kg of CO2 emissions per person in EU. This surge has drawn the attention of lawmakers, who are now enforcing regulations to mitigate these impacts. As a result, the textile industry must transition from a linear "take-make-dispose" model to a circular one that reduces waste and reintroduces secondary raw materials into the system. This shift is critical as Europe, for instance, deals with about 15 kg of textile waste per person annually, with discarded clothing and household textiles constituting 85% of this waste according to McKinsey state of Fashion 2023 report.
The textile industry is becoming increasingly aware of the importance of recycled fibres due to a number of factors, including growing environmental consciousness, rising raw material costs and new regulatory mandates. Brands and manufacturers are exploring circular fashion models that emphasize recycling and upcycling textiles. Although, according to Textile Exchange’s Material Market Report 2023 recycled textiles constituted less than 1% of the global fiber market in 2022, this figure is expected to grow as regulations become more stringent. Central to this transformation is the adoption of the Digital Product Passport (DPP), a tool designed to enhance transparency and traceability within supply chains by providing detailed information about products' material composition, production methods, and recycling potential.
The DPP was defined by the European Commission as a “product-specific data set,” which would structure the disclosure requirements of products. It can provide information on the origin, composition, repair, and disassembly options of a product as well as how the various components can be recycled. All this information brings a new level of transparency that not only improves communication between different actors in the value chain (e.g. producers and recyclers), but also boosts consumer awareness and empowers better decision making. This data not only enhances sorting efficiency but also ensures precision in recycling processes, ultimately fostering quality assurance and consumer trust. The DPP initiative aligns with the European Commission's push for eco-design requirements for sustainable products and the directive on empowering consumers for the green transition. The "Product" focus of the passport and the "material blind spot" where physical tracers make their case by ensuring material authenticity and contribute to the DPP.
Material integrity is vital for the quality and performance of textile products, influencing factors such as durability and consistency. By maintaining high material integrity, manufacturers can boost consumer confidence, reduce counterfeiting risks, and promote ethical and sustainable practices. Physical tracers embedded in textile fibers provide a unique material fingerprint that can be detected and quantified using spectroscopic sensors. This process ensures that the data integrated into DPPs is accurate and verifiable.
The integration of physical tracers with digital traceability accumulators like blockchain. NFC, RFID QR code in label further enhance this process. These tracers provide reliable signals for fiber blend quantification, facilitating a smooth interface between physical materials and digital claims. This dual approach diminishes "label fatigue" and supports seamless documentation and verification of material integrity throughout the supply chain.
The textile industry faces significant challenges in ensuring the authenticity, quality, and traceability of its products. Counterfeiting, which cost the EU clothing industry nearly €12 billion in annual sales between 2018 and 2021, highlights the need for robust traceability systems. Tracers can provide much-needed verification of a product's material integrity while also confirming provenance and, depending on the use case, particular geographic places of origin (from point of application). These functions can assist in eliminating fraud and add a layer of assurance to complex supply networks.
In the context of labour due diligence, the use of physical tracers that provide evidence of specific geographies can assist in confirming that the geographic sourcing expectations are being met. Furthermore, in certain instances, these tracers can facilitate the tracking and measurement of specific procurement levels from designated regions or countries. Similarly, issues like illegal deforestation linked to cotton production for major brands underscore the importance of transparency and accountability in the supply chain.
The combined use of physical tracers and DPPs offers a promising solution. Inorganic tracer pigments embedded in fibers can be detected throughout the material's lifecycle, providing continuous verification and monitoring. This capability is crucial for substantiating green claims and ensuring compliance with sustainability standards, reducing the risk of greenwashing and enhancing consumer trust.
While the use of inorganic tracers and Digital Product Passports (DPP) offers advancements in textile traceability, it also presents challenges due to limited prior research and the complexity of implementation across diverse supply chains. For tracers, challenges include the need for broad supply chain participation, potential data biases from fiber inhomogeneity, and confidentiality constraints on calibration data. In DPP applications, companies face hurdles in managing, sharing, and verifying data across multiple entities. Effective DPP adoption requires a unified data structure, willingness to share sensitive information, and solutions for secure data management. Addressing these challenges will enhance traceability and transparency, enabling a more circular and sustainable textile industry.
The role of physical inorganic tracers in bridging the gap between material integrity and digital product passports presents a proven advancement for the textile industry. This approach not only alleviates the risk of fraud and mislabeling but also provides a reliable method for verifying material blend. As regulatory pressures around sustainability and recycling intensify, this integrated method helps manufacturers meet legal requirements and certification standards, thereby enhancing market access and reducing the risk of consequences.
Such traceability solution always enhances consumer trust, supports regulatory compliance, and promotes a more ethical and sustainable industry. As the textile sector navigates this transformative period, the integration of material intelligence and digital product passports would play a pivotal role in achieving a circular economy and driving long-term sustainability.
Contact:
Pranta Biswas
Business Development Representative
Tailorlux GmbH
Fraunhoferstrasse 1
48161 Münster
sales@tailorlux.com
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